Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially defined its essence: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to explore these tales and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
